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Mount Amadablam Expedition
   
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Ama Dablam (6,812m.) North West Expedition

Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern part of Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 meters (22,349 ft, the lower western peak is 5,563 meters (18,251 ft). Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side look like the arms of a mother (Ama) protecting her child and the hanging glacier thought of as the Dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest base camp.

Ama Dablam 6812m, normal route is easier than North West ridge. More steep climbing almost from ABC to TOP. You need fixed rope at 4500m. In May 1979 Jeff Lowe made a remarkable solo ascent of the wildly fluted South Face, emerging just beneath its vertical headwall on to the original route. That autumn a French expedition led by Louis Absorber also climbed the North Ridge.

It is fine route, harder than the South -West Ridge, with rock at the start, and an extravagantly corniced snow ridge near the top. While the French were on the North Ridge, disaster struck a New Zealand team attempting the West Face, when a huge section of the upper hanging glacier crashed down, killing Ken Hyslop and badly injuring peter Hillary and his other two companions. This face would appear to be very dangerous but it has since been climbed, solo by the well-known Czech climber Miri Smid in 1987.

Two routes were added in 1985. In November, Hooman Aprin and Randy Harrington (USA) with the Spaniard Martin Zabaleta climbed the South-East or (Left) Dwarfed by the immense ice cliffs of the Dablam, a lone climber abseils back to the top camp from the summit ice field. (Below) A typical situation on the South-West Ridge, near the base of the Yellow Tower , Behind is the famous silhouettes of Kantega (left) and Thamserku. ( Bill O'Connor) Lagunak Ridge, Again, this ridge was slightly harder than the original route with the main difficulties on snow mushrooms and fluting. Tucked away at the back of the mountain, normally seen only by people climbing on Island Peak or Lhotse , or from high on Everest, this secret face was a formidable and potentially dangerous challenge.

The danger was minimized by tackling the face in winter, with daytime temperatures well bellow freezing; the technical difficulties were subdued by the very experienced team of Carlos Buhler and Michael Kennedy. They followed the prominent curving ice rib up the centre of the face. The difficulties were predominantly on ice over rocks, waterfall ice and unconsolidated snow.

Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer hotel
Day 02: Prepare Expedition
Day 03: Expedition Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 04: Fly to Lukla 2800m. & trek to Phakding - Lodge
Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3440) - Lodge
Day 06: Namche - Thyanboche 3800m -Lodge
Day 07: Thanboche – Dingboche 4410m.Lodge
Day 08: Dingboche – Ama Dablam North Ridge B.C 5200m.-Camping
Day 09-25: Climbing period for Ama Dablam 6812m. (N/W)
Day 26: Ama  Dablam SW Ridge - Namche Bazaar
Day 27: Namche - Lukla - Lodge
Day 28: Fly Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 29: Kathmandu
Day 30: Final Departure

Cost Includes

  • 4 Nights hotel in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast a- tourist standard Hotel.
  • Permit fee of Ama Dablam 6812m. Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and  base camp of expedition
  • Expedition staff: Trekking B.C. Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • For Expedition necessary Porter or Yak Lukla to B.C. & Base camp Lukla
  • Kathmandu –Lukla – Kathmandu flights with Cargo 30 KG per climber
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition staff
  • Life, Medical & Rescue Insurance for Nepalese expedition staff + officer
  • 1 tent for 1 person in base camp
  • Mattresses, dining tent, Toilet tent, Store tent, Table and chair for expedition
  • Pick up & drop in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  • Well come dinner with typically Nepali restaurant with songs & dance
  • Agency service charge

Cost Excludes

  • Personal equipment for trekking & climbing
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Walki Takie permit & personal satellite phone permit
  • Personal expenses
  • fixed rope and mail rope
  • Bar Bills & beverage
  • If each climbing member have more than 30 KG load & they have to pay extra porter
  • Garbage Deposit and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don’t take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.
Other Expedition Areas

Everest Guides
Alpine Everest Guides Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd.
P.O. Box No: 20654
Chandol, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Tel: 4412900, 4410020, 4260205
Fax: 00977-1-4437604