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Makalu Expedition (8,463m.) Autumn 2015

Mount Makalu 8463meter was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu 8201meter expedition.

The first attempt on mount Makalu was in 1954 by a US team, mostly from California, who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time a British team approached the mountain, but this expedition was abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated. In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In the following spring, successfully ascents were made by three teams of French climbers on successive days.The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975.

Mount Makalu West Face
Mount Makalu 8463meter Expedition in Nepal is very adventurous route to climb because on the Mount Makalu west face it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this Mount Makalu Mountain; then only it was succeeded in the final.

The West Face was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".

The routes are of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.

Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit without the use of oxygen and Sherpa support.


22 August 2015 Day 01: Arrival Kathmand & transfer to hotel
23 August 2015 Day 02: Prepare Expedition
24 August 2015 Day 03: Expedition Briefing in Ministry of tourism
25 August 2015 Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar & drive Num
26 August 2015 Day 05: Num- Seduwa
27 August 2015 Day 06: Seduwa - Tashigaun
28 August 2015 Day 07: Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda)
29 August 2015 Day 08: Khongmadanda - Mumfuk
30 August 2015 Day 09: Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
31 August 2015 Day 10: Yangle Khark -Merak
01 September 2015 Day 11: Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize
02 September 2015 Day 12: Sersung - Makalu Base camp
03 September - 02 October - 2015 Day 13 - 42: Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m)
03 October 2015 Day 43: Makalu BC - Mumbuck
04 October 2015 Day 44: Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda)
05 October 2015 Day 45: Khongma La - Seduwa
06 October 2015 Day 46: Seduwa - Chichila
07 October 2015 Day 47: Chichila - Tumlingtar
08 October 2015 Day 48: Fly to Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
09 October 2015 Day 49: Kathmandu
10 October 2015 Day 50: Final Departure

Cost Includes

  • 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast with Tourist Standard
  • Climbing Permit fee of Makalu 8463 meter Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and base camp of Makalu
  • Staff: 1 trekking & B.C. Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
  • Kathmandu –Tmlingtar - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 40 KG per climber
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition staff
  • Life, Medical and rescue Insurance for Nepali expedition staff & Liaison officer
  • 1 tent for 1 climber for base camp and 1 tent for 2 climber for trekking north face or similar
  • Mattresses, dining tent, Toilet tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking & expedition B.C.
  • Pick & drop Kathmandu Airport-hotel-airport
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator in base camp, use pay it
  • Provides satellite phone service (Pay calls)
  • Welcome dinner with typical Nepali restaurant with song & dance
  • Solar panel for Batteries charge and lighting
  • Agency service charge

Cost Excludes

  • PERSONAL equipment for trekking & climbing
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition climber
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
  • fixed rope
  • Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit
  • Oxygen & Mask –regulator
  • Personal expenses
  • Bar Bills & beverage
  • Garbage deposit & deposit fee will be not refunded if the climber don't take back their garbage to base camp & Kathmandu.
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Alpine Everest Guides Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd.
P.O. Box No: 20654
Chandol, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Tel: 4412900, 4410020, 4260205
Fax: 00977-1-4437604