Khumbu, Nepal / Expedition

Nuptse Expedition

A serious technical expedition on Nuptse, approached through the upper Khumbu and based beneath the Everest massif.

Everest and the Nuptse ridge above the Khumbu Glacier
Everest and the Nuptse ridge above the Khumbu Glacier.
Duration
40 daysOutline programme
Summit objective
7,861 mRoute objective
Season
SpringAsk for current dates
Experience
High-altitude expeditionExpedition

A closer look at the journey.

Nuptse forms the great mountain wall south of the Western Cwm, adjoining the Everest and Lhotse massif. The approach follows the Khumbu trail through Namche, Tengboche and Lobuche before leaving for the mountain base. This is a technical expedition requiring a clearly agreed summit objective and route, rather than an extension of the Everest trek.

The approach and climbing phases form one extended mountain journey. Time above base camp is used for acclimatization, carrying equipment, rest and a summit attempt when conditions allow. Discuss your climbing history with us so that the route, team support and equipment plan suit the objective and your experience.

  • Upper Khumbu approach to the Everest massif
  • Dedicated Nuptse expedition base
  • A sustained technical climbing period

The route, day by day.

This is an outline programme. The team will confirm the route and arrangements with you, allowing for weather, access and local conditions.

Day 1-3Kathmandu preparation

Arrive, check equipment and complete expedition arrangements and briefings.

Day 4Lukla to Phakding

Fly to Lukla and begin the trek.

Day 5-6Namche acclimatization

Reach Namche and spend a further day acclimatizing.

Day 7-9Tengboche to Lobuche

Continue through Tengboche and Pheriche into the upper valley.

Day 10Nuptse Base Camp

Leave the trekking route and establish the mountain base.

Day 11-32Nuptse climbing period

Use acclimatization rotations, route work and suitable weather windows for the agreed objective.

Day 33Clear base camp

Pack equipment and prepare for the return trek.

Day 34-37Return to Lukla

Descend through Pheriche, Tengboche and Jorsalle to Lukla.

Day 38Fly to Kathmandu

Return by air when weather permits.

Day 39Kathmandu reserve day

Rest and complete the expedition debriefing.

Day 40Departure

Transfer for your onward journey.

A clear plan and quotation.

Request an itemised quotation for your group, dates and preferred level of support. Agree the inclusions before booking travel.

Services to discuss

  • Agree the permit arrangements and in-country transport in your quotation.
  • Agree the guiding, porter support and responsibilities on the mountain.
  • Agree accommodation, camp facilities and the meals provided at each stage.
  • Agree shared climbing equipment, communications and emergency arrangements.

Budget separately

  • International travel, entry documents and costs outside the agreed programme.
  • Personal climbing equipment and insurance appropriate to the itinerary.
  • Personal spending, tips and any separately agreed climbing staff bonuses.
  • Additional accommodation, transport or evacuation costs if plans change.

Before you set out.

Extensive alpine and high-altitude expedition experience, strong mixed-terrain skills and confidence on exposed steep ground are essential.

Accommodation: Hotels in Kathmandu, trekking lodges or approach camps, and tented climbing camps.

Use the trip preparation guide to plan equipment, travel documents and questions for the team.

Is the summit attempt on a fixed day?

The itinerary gives a climbing window. Your guide will adjust the attempt, rest days and descent to the conditions and the team. Reaching the summit cannot be guaranteed.

What experience should I discuss before booking?

Extensive alpine and high-altitude expedition experience, strong mixed-terrain skills and confidence on exposed steep ground are essential. Share details of your recent climbs, altitude experience and rope skills so that we can assess the preparation and support required.

Everest, Lhotse and Makalu catching the last sun, seen from Gokyo Ri

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Bhim PaudelExecutive Director

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Season

Highest altitude so far, any summits, and when you can travel.