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Khumbu and Hinku, Nepal / Peak climbing

Mera and Island Peak Traverse

Link Island Peak and Mera through the technical Amphu Lapcha crossing, combining two climbs with a remote valley traverse.

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Mera Peak, one of the objectives on the combined journey
Mera Peak, one of the objectives on the combined journey.
Duration
25 daysOutline programme
Highest summit objective
6,476 mRoute objective
Season
Spring / AutumnAsk for current dates
Experience
Technical peak climbingPeak climbing

A closer look at the journey.

This traverse links the Khumbu and Hinku sides of the Everest region through the technical Amphu Lapcha pass. The programme first approaches Island Peak through Namche and Chhukung, then crosses into the remote upper Hunku valley before continuing to Mera. It demands the stamina and rope skills for consecutive climbing objectives and a difficult pass.

The programme combines an approach trek with time for climbing preparation and a summit attempt. Snow, glacier conditions and weather can change the route and daily plan. Tell us about your mountain experience before booking so that we can agree the equipment, guiding and preparation needed for this particular climb.

  • Island Peak and Mera climbing objectives
  • Technical Amphu Lapcha crossing
  • Remote Hunku traverse and Hinku valley descent

The route, day by day.

This is an outline programme. The team will confirm the route and arrangements with you, allowing for weather, access and local conditions.

Day 1-3Khumbu approach

Start in Kathmandu, fly to Lukla and trek through Phakding to Namche, with an acclimatization day.

Day 4-6Tengboche to Chhukung

Continue through the Khumbu and Imja valleys towards Chhukung.

Day 7-9Climbing preparation

Spend time on skills practice and acclimatization before the first peak.

Day 10-13Island Peak climbing window

Move to the mountain base, attempt the climb and retain spare days before the traverse.

Day 14-15Amphu Lapcha crossing

Reach the northern pass camp and cross into the Hunku basin when conditions permit.

Day 16-17Hunku valley to Mera La

Continue via Rato Odhar towards the Mera climbing approach.

Day 18-20Mera climbing window

Establish a higher camp, attempt the summit and use the spare day as conditions require.

Day 21-24Hinku valley descent

Return through Khare, Kothe and Thuli Kharka, crossing back towards Lukla.

Day 25Fly to Kathmandu

Return to Kathmandu by air when weather permits.

A clear plan and quotation.

Request an itemised quotation for your group, dates and preferred level of support. Agree the inclusions before booking travel.

Services to discuss

  • Agree the permit arrangements and in-country transport in your quotation.
  • Agree the guiding, porter support and responsibilities on the mountain.
  • Agree accommodation, camp facilities and the meals provided at each stage.
  • Agree shared climbing equipment, communications and emergency arrangements.

Budget separately

  • International travel, entry documents and costs outside the agreed programme.
  • Personal climbing equipment and insurance appropriate to the itinerary.
  • Personal spending, tips and any separately agreed climbing staff bonuses.
  • Additional accommodation, transport or evacuation costs if plans change.

Before you set out.

Previous high-altitude climbing, competent fixed-rope ascent and abseiling, glacier travel and the endurance for a remote technical traverse are essential.

Accommodation: Hotels in Kathmandu, trekking lodges or approach camps, and tented climbing camps.

Use the trip preparation guide to plan equipment, travel documents and questions for the team.

Which peak comes first in this programme?

The published route climbs Island Peak first, crosses Amphu Lapcha into the Hunku valley and then approaches Mera. The reverse direction is possible as a separately planned itinerary.

Is Amphu Lapcha a normal trekking pass?

It is a technical crossing with steep and exposed terrain that can require fixed ropes and abseiling. Suitable climbing experience, equipment and current route conditions are essential.

Other journeys to explore.

Everest, Lhotse and Makalu catching the last sun, seen from Gokyo Ri

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Bhim PaudelExecutive Director

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